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Regional VariationsCider AppreciationOne of the great things about cider is the way it takes on some of the characteristics of its environment. A farmhouse cider, for example, brewed in an old hay barn, may well take on a grassy flavour indicative of late summer haymaking. Much as a regional dish may capture a stereotype of local culture, produce, even the nature of the landscape; so a cider subtly communicates something of its roots. East vs. WestHere in the UK, there's a marked contrast between cider from the East and West. In the East (incl. Hampshire and Sussex), the climate is generally drier and more sheltered. Typically, blends of culinary apples (Eaters and Cookers) are used, resulting in handsome cider with fine bouquet and tangy spike. The West, being exposed to the prevailing Westerlies off the Atlantic, is much wetter; so hardier apples with more resistance to rot and damage are favoured. Many of these are dedicated cider varieties (Drinkers), normally fibrous and hard with high tannin content. Consequently cider from the West is typically more astringent and full bodied. The Westcountry GyantsThe following generalisations typify styles of Westcountry cider: Cornish RuggedryCornish ciders tend to have a ruddy ruggedness about them, which to me at any rate, is evocative of the striking coastlines and mining heritage of this county. Typically they are quite tannic, resulting in a sensation on the roof of the mouth, which tends the drinker to "tut" or smack the lips on sampling. Their nature is often quite warming and mellow, with a mineral element. In colour, they often favor yellow tones, over red, and cloudiness over clarity. Devonshire EdgeDevon is renowned for its very powerfully sharp style, which can literally bring tears to the eyes (as Dragon Tears by Green Valley Cyder). Full of Devonshire horsepower and virility, to me, they are evocative of big ol' iron farming implements such as the scythe and plough. The acetic clout is much wider/broader than the sharps of the East and for many this proves an acquired taste. If you find it too harsh, my advice is to blend it, either with other cider, apple juice or even sparkling mineral water. Many will consider this sacrilege, but to waste it without some relative appreciation is a far worse crime. Somerset MagicProbably the greatest concentration of cider apple trees are found in the county of Somerset. This county has a really mystical quality about it; should you ever see the Tors rise out of the shallow mists of the Levels you'll know exactly what I mean. At its heart is Glastonbury, which legend calls the Isles of Avalon (Blessed Apples?) This ancient, mysterious quality comes through in the cider, which is characterised by a very rounded and long lasting flavour - truly magical! Gloucester/Herefordshire Bounty"Here you may behold the highways and publick roads, full of fruit trees, not set, but growing naturally. The earth of its own accord bearing fruit, exceeding others both in taste and beauty, many of which continue fresh the whole year round, and serve the owner till he is supplied by new increase." - Camden's Brittania, 1586 Needless to say, this part of the country has a long and productive cider history. The soil and climate seem particularly favourable to fruit trees which remain abundant. This comes through in the cider which exhibits an exceptionally fruity character. |
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